La part des anges

The angels' share, la part des anges, is that part of the alcohol in cognac which is evaporated as the spirit matures in its casks.  I well remember our first trip to Cognac and the air seemed sweet with its aroma.  The memory of that trip came scenting back on a more recent staycation in County Fermanagh.

However, I wasn't expecting the angels' share to be provided by a glass warming technique that we experienced when we visited the Watermill Lodge near Lisnaskea 



Our very friendly and knowledgeable sommelier, Flavien, first placed a brandy glass upside down on his service table and then filled the dimple in the base with a small amount of the house XS cognac.  This he then lit with a gas torch and as the flame took hold he suspended another cognac glass upside down over the rising heat. He did this twice, once for each glass, and then served us a measure of a finer cognac in the warmed glass.  Other diners paused their meals to witness the spectacle.  None of us had seen this before. Flavien clearly had the 'nac.

Pity about the angels.  They got a share of the more modest one on the house.

Follow that?
Well we stayed for two nights at the Watermill and on the second we repeated the experience and then were treated to a visit of the restaurant's wine store. I've never been as close before to some of France's most sought after wines.  Neither the angels nor I were having any of that; the corks were still firmly in place.
Will visit again soon to see how they're doing.......


Michel Thomas



Keeping this spot for an upcoming post on the extraordinary life and work of Michel Thomas.....

In it, I'll be sharing my thoughts on the book The Test of Courage by Christopher Robbins and as a former French teacher I will also give my impressions after having listened to the 8-part CD French Course.

Interested in Michel Thomas?  Check here for Wikipedia article.

French marriage contract 1595


I really am not sure about the text of this treasured possession. I know it is a marriage contract, handwritten on parchment that we bought many years ago. The ink has clearly stood the test of time but the writing and some of the words used are difficult to make out.
It does seem to state that the contract dates from 1595 and it will be a labour of love to decipher and translate the text.  It has defeated a few French friends who have stayed at our home.

Here's a close up of the opening sentences:



Any suggestions?

Belfast flânerie


The Christmas continental market is in Belfast again and it's always great to welcome the French stall holders back to our city... especially if they offer mouth-watering pastries.  I resisted temptation until the moment I spotted the stall of Le Petit Gascon with its sign drawing attention to an array of sliced custard tarts.

As I explained in une part de flan, a post on this site from exactly 4 years ago, this pastry has a special place in my heart.  And so it wasn't long before I was holding a slice having explained to the server, c'est pour manger maintenant! 


Sensing my appreciation a trader from another stall called over, Venez ici, monsieur! while pointing at some freshly made chichis (churros). I shouted that I'd be back later but really, for me at least, there's no comparison between these two pastries and I'm sure that once I get back it'll have to be another slice of flan.




Paris, Apollinaire and Devoir de mémoire

Less than a week ago, last Wednesday, our cercle français met to reflect on the First World War battle of Verdun.  As we approach the one hundred year anniversary of the battle, we were exploring the theme of devoir de mémoire, the duty to remember.  The battle lasted 300 days and accounted for three quarters of a million casualties, with fatalities of 162,400 on the French side and 143,000 on the German.  A devastating death toll.

On Friday, 13 November, just over 300 days since the 7 January attacks on the offices of Charlie Hebdo and the Kosher supermarket, Paris was attacked again, in several places at once. 129, mostly young people, were killed.

The government's response has been forceful.  Président François Hollande says that France is at war.

The notion of being at war reminded me of our Verdun reflections.  These had included a short segment on Guillaume Apollinaire, a poet who served on the front line of the Western Front.  At the onset of war, Apollinaire composed these lines for his poem, La Petite Auto:

                      Nous dîmes adieu à toute une époque
                      Des géants furieux se dressaient sur l'Europe
                      Les aigles quittaient leur aire attendant le soleil
                      Les poissons voraces montaient des abîmes
                      Les peuples accouraient pour se connâitre à fond
                      Les morts tremblaient de peur dans leurs sombres demeures

                            We said a final goodbye to a whole era
                            Furious giants were standing over Europe
                            Eagles left their eyrie, waiting for the sun
                            Ravenous fish rose from the depths
                            Nations flocked together to know each other deep down
                            The dead trembled with fear in their dark dwelling places

Apollinaire was also a casualty and was invalided out of the army in 1916 with a shrapnel wound to the head. He died in the influenza epidemic of 1918, two days before the signing of the Armistice.

His words above, 100 years later strike me as having a resonance with today.

Where do we go from here?  Will it always be like this? Is the future changed utterly?

Discussing the legacy of Verdun, our small group took comfort at the reconciliation, even after the devastation of two world wars, that has taken place between France and Germany. The leaders of the two countries will stand together in May 2016 to remember those who died 100 years ago in the battle of Verdun.

I expect, as they reflect on lessons learned, that their thoughts will also include those who died in Paris, Beirut, Syria, Libya and other war-torn countries that make up our fractured world.

We too must reflect.  It is our devoir de mémoire.


Mémoires de la France: Jim Holland


What a lovely honour. Last night at the second reunion of the Cercle français de Belfast 's caféfrancophilo, Jim Holland dedicated his mémoires de la France piece to yours truly.
The evening was a great success and sets the standard and tone for subsequent meetings of the group. We numbered 24 and it was great to hear the Dark Horse Coffee House resonating with stories of Les objets qui vous tiennent à cœur. Allison Neill-Rabaux was our animatrice for the evening and in addition to displaying her impeccable mastery of French she did a fantastic job, keeping us on track and on time. Brilliant.